Basic Site Tools

Regardless of your project, there are some tools you just can't do without. Mark Rumuz goes through the basics
by Mark Ramuz
26th November 2012

There are some tools that you will find invaluable on your self-build site, no matter what your building methods and materials. In the current economic climate value for money tools are crucial, but remember that you get what you pay for – a tool that’s awkward to use or under-powered will cost you much more in extra man hours than you ever saved at the till.

Wheelbarrow

The builders’ packhorse has to be both strong and light enough to be manoeuvrable. So, what do you look for? From the bottom up, look for a thick (ideally six-ply) tyre that can be replaced when necessary. Painted steel frames and hods (the ‘barrow’ part) will do the job, but will rust as the paint is worn away. A few pounds extra will buy a galvinised metal barrow that should last for years, or even a polypropylene hod which will resist the corrosive effects of concrete and mortar mixing.

Always go for a barrow with rubber grips on the handles to help you push through thick mud without slipping. Top-of-the-range models even have safety guards on the handles to protect your knuckles as you steer the wheelbarrow through doorways. Depths and hod shapes vary, with load capacities of between 80 and 125 litres.

Spirit level

Levels attract tremendous brand loyalty among the trade. When was the last time you saw a builder who wasn’t using a yellow Stabila level?

And you might need more than one; a 1.8m-long level is a good general-purpose size, but a longer level will be useful for any larger landscape project where exact falls need to be built in. Also, sometimes a 1.8m level is awkward to use in small or cramped spaces, so always have a smaller ‘torpedo’ level handy. Useful extras, aside from vertical and horizontal accuracy, are handholds and an adjustable end vial that can be twisted around to measure an angle.

Laser levels are available in any DIY store these days, but don’t rush out to buy one unless you have a task that needs extra accuracy or convenience, such as a complex tiling job, with dado or other borders. A laser will make setting out much easier than using a spirit level, and the highest spec models feature cross-beam lines at exact right angles. ‘Round-the-room’, 360-degree-beams are the ultimate laser level, but come at a premium price of £100 plus.

Angle grinder

A site basic that gets put to all sorts of uses; some not to be recommended. The larger, 230mm (9in) disk machines are the best buy. Powerful enough for any task, they can be used for grinding as well as shaping, and cutting metal and stone.

Most are powered by a hefty 2,000W or greater motor, with speeds ranging from 6,000 to 8,500rpm. Although all these tools look similar, check the specifications carefully. Better-quality pro brands include dust-sealed bearings and fully leaded stator windings for durability. A ‘soft-start’ motor is also a worthwhile option as the kickback from these machines can be daunting for the novice user. Always make sure the guard is correctly positioned to deflect debris and sparks away from you. A tool-free guard adjustment is the best choice. When buying, don’t be tempted by a grinder for £50, as it will be harsh, heavy and probably won’t last long.

Look out for special offers that give you free discs as part of the package.

Shovel

Where would a self-builder be without a reliable shovel?

Unfortunately, the best ones are those that have been worn down by constant use for a few years. However, if you can’t wait that long, the important things to look for are a high-carbon steel head and long socket to provide strength at the vulnerable pivot point. It’s down to personal choice whether you go for a traditional T-shape handle or the modern Y pattern. The latter can be made from polypropylene rather than wood.

Look for a wide blade, at least 240mm, with a square rather than rounded mouth for ‘digging in’ to that pile of sand or ballast. For extra lightness and durability, we recommend a fibreglass-shafted shovel, although this will cost a few pounds more.

Circular saw

Every builder needs a tough circular saw can handle wet wood and all of the common structural timbers.

Motors run from around 1000W to 2000W, with more power giving you the ability to slice through abrasive hardwoods without stalling and to tackle thick material.

A 190mm-diameter-blade machine can cut through materials from 60 to 65mm thick, while a 230mm-diameter blade can handle 80-85mm timber.

Own-brand bargains DIY stores will almost certainly have a cheap blade. Upgrade this with a superior blade from Bosch, Makita or DeWalt and make sure you have the correct tooth configuration for the task. For example, for cross-cutting a lot of timber, opt for a 40-tooth configuration on a 190mm blade for a splinter-free result. For cutting along the grain, you need a blade with fewer teeth, around 24, so that the sawdust can be cleared quickly to make cutting easier.

Sledge hammer

This is the quintessential builder’s basic ‘easing’ tool for coaxing timber and concrete into shape. Sledge hammers come in 7, 10 and 14lb weights, but heaviest doesn’t always mean best. A light 7lb model is much more controllable and certainly less tiring to use. Traditional versions have seasoned hickory handles but, again, there’s a lot to commend the lighter fibreglass handle with a nylon core that’s claimed to reduce vibration and provide a firmer fixing into the head, as well as better grip. It also doesn’t matter if you leave it around in the rain. Hammer heads should be heat-treated and hardened, with the edges of the striking face nicely rounded. Buy a club hammer for use with cold chisels at the same time.

Hardpoint saw

The disposable builder’s saw that takes all sorts of abuse on site. You can buy them cheaply, but it’s better to spend more for a quality tool that will make cutting easier.

Blades should be rigid enough – around 1mm thick – to resist flexing, and minimise ‘whip’ and vibration when sawing. Spear & Jackson’s Duralife technology ensures the blade lasts longer than budget brands. Teeth come in a few configurations, but usually either LRSS (left, right, straight, straight) or fleam, where teeth are of equal length in the shape of an isosceles triangle.

Seven teeth per inch (tpi) is ideal for a fast, ‘first-fix’ cut – through joists and other structural timbers – providing fast removal of large quantities of materials, whereas 14tpi is perfect for resilient, tough materials where blade wear can be high, for example laminate flooring, and where a fine finish is required Saw grips should have soft-feel grip to cushion the user’s hand and a finger guide to allow you to guide the blade accurately.

Concrete mixer

A basic mini cement mixer is so cheap these days that it’s always worth buying one rather than hiring it, as you can store the unit away in a garage and have it handy for future work, or sell it on once your job is finished and make a bit of cash off it. However, the very cheapest models do have some drawbacks. A 430-500W model will struggle with the full 90-litre mix capacity and the motor is always under a strain that could shorten its life. The stands also tend to be too delicate for heavy use.

For housebuilding, it’s better to spend another £150-200 and invest in a 600W plus machine with an IP45-rated motor. This will mix a full barrow load in one go. The extra shroud around the motor unit mean the machine can be hosed down without damage and the extra money will also buy a much stronger stand that will support a full load as you tip the hod.

The machine should also have an NVR (no volt release) switch. This trips the machine’s on/off switch in the event of a power supply cut. When the power comes back on, the machine is automatically switched off until you reset the NVR switch for added safety.

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