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Q&As
Resin or Block Paved Paths?
I want to create a new path in resin-bound stones. It' will be a walkway to a greenhouse - no cars will go over it. There is no existing path or tarmac to go over, but I do have a couple of bags of mot and grit sand left over from a patio.
My thoughts were to dig the path lay the mot and whack it. I have some blocks for the edges so will concrete them in and pop some grit sand and cement mixture as a smoothing layer over the mot to leave about 20mm for the resin. Will this survive or am I better just block paving the path? I just like the look of the resin.
3 Answers
Hi Peter,
Thanks for your question. I have passed this on to our expert team and will aim to get an answer over to you ASAP.
Anamika Talwaria (Build It features editor)
Have a look at the chemical composition of the resin (most likely petrochemicals) and see whether that’s something you want to create, have around and ultimately can it be recycled? The blocks will generally be lower energy.
Even better, for a path, you can lay choice stones in mortar (over a concrete base gives you less risk of cracking from heavy loads but if foot traffic only this may not be needed), along with whatever else you fancy. Cobbled streets didn’t even use cement mortar.
I’ve laid some lovely paths using reclaimed paviours – Staffordshire blue – and generally we lay paviours (like blocks) over a bed of sand – so you only need materials with binders (concrete or mortar) under the edges to provide the stability, but again on a garden path even this may still be overkill. The joy of a garden path is that you can do whatever you want, and get creative, especially with recycled and natural materials. If you’re not using heavy duty binders, you can change it in minutes and indefinitely if you don’t like the design.
Nigel Griffiths (Build It sustainability expert)
Planning permission will be required if you intend to pave more than 5sqm of your front garden unless you use a porous form of construction. I assume this path is to the rear of your house and I also assume that your building is not Listed in which case planning consents are not required.
I would also suggest that any trees in the vicinity of the path should be taken into consideration and try to set out your path so you are outside any tree protection areas so the trees are not impacted by the new path and vice versa.
With regard to the make up, the sub base is crucial to the longevity of whichever route you decide to take. I would suggest at least a 150mm deep make up of hardcore with a 50mm bed to go underneath a block paved path. This will result in a porous form of construction, so preventing large amounts of water running off the path compared to an impenetrable construction. However, if this is not important or you can provide a lawn or border for rainwater to drain too, this is also fine.
Usually on a resin finish we would also have a 15 to 25mm first course and 5mm finish. If drainage through the path is not needed then the concrete you suggest should be a minimum of 100mm – otherwise, if it cracks it will quickly manifest in the finish. Resin is usually laid onto special concrete or open textured macadam on top of a type 3 subbase, so check the materials you have meet this recommendation. You should also consider where rainfall goes to or install a soakaway alongside if the path is of a sufficient size and could send a lot of rainwater to your house or adjoining pathways.
Opinder Liddar (Build It expert, lapd Architects)